Aspen has long been on the map as the place to see and be seen, but its hidden jewels lie not only in the natural beauty of its Rocky Mountain setting, but also in some of the people who quietly go about their way making Aspen a place to come again and again. Among these people are the chefs and restaurateurs who have managed to pack more great restaurants into this tiny town than Disneyland has tourists. The annual June Aspen Food & Wine Classic sponsored by Food & Wine Magazine helps this effort by drawing hundreds of people from all over the world who are interested in tasting rare wines, learning about the newest food trends, and seeing the experts in both
food and wine strut their stuff. But it's the local food that has elevated Aspen above the rest of the Colorado resort towns to a destination for people who love food. Whether you trek up to a beautifully-situated restaurant high in the mountains or choose to remain a "townie," you'll find astounding food being cooked by the people who make Aspen their home. This abundance of talent makes it difficult to decide where to dine, but that's part of the fun.
Particularly special is Aspen in the summertime, when many restaurants trot out the heat lamps and set the outdoor tables for an evening under the stars. The fusion of mountain fresh air and freshly-cooked food is positively intoxicating. The annual Aspen Music Festival adds a musical note to the air, since musicians can often be heard practicing their classical pieces on benches in the middle of town. One note of caution: eating does not come cheap in this star-studded town. Expect New York prices -- and then some -- at the nicer restaurants, and plan on spending more than you think you should just about everywhere else. The pay-off, however, is worth it.
Prices: (All are based on dinner and dessert for two, not including wine) over $75.00between $50.00 and $75.00 between $25.00 and $50.00 up to $25.00
Ajax Tavern685 E. Durant Ave. Aspen 970-920-9333Full barMajor credit cards accepted
This "Real Restaurant" restaurant, (Fog City Diner, Mustard's, Tra Vigne, Betelnut all in Northern California) has the best seat in town, just under the main gondola that carries skiers up the mountain in the winter and sightseers to the top in the summer. The outdoor deck is the perfect place to enjoy one of the creative lunchtime salads or, if it's a little cool, some great soup. At night, the Ajax, as it's called locally, heats up and becomes one of the toughest reservations in town. That's because chef Tobias Lowry, trained at St. Helena, California's famed Tra Vigne Restaurant, has brought some of his own inventions to this mountain town, as well as a philosophy that dictates the use of farm fresh ingredients or none at all. He has his summer-ripe tomatoes flown in from California (and a lot of other produce, too), so any dish with tomatoes is a good bet. So, too, are the grilled meats, seasonal pastas, and fresh fish. Although Lowry offers dishes with origins in different parts of the world, don't expect him to "fuse" them. He's a stickler for ethnic food integrity. Definitely save room for dessert, which are all big, decadent, and the types you secretly hope for even though you know you shouldn't indulge at all.
Olives Restaurant315 E. Dean St. (The Luxury Collection, Aspen Hotel) Aspen 970-920-7315Major credit cards acceptedFull barBrunch served on Sunday
Formerly the Ritz Hotel, the St. Regis Hotel is host to a large lounge area where locals and visitors alike congregate in front of the roaring fire. Since the summer evenings in Aspen are cool, this is a year-round ritual. Olives Restaurant, located inside of the hotel, fits the mountain setting by offering, what else, pizzas...and more.
Conundrum325 E. Main St. Aspen 970-925-9969Full barMajor credit cards accepted
One of Aspen's best restaurants...contemporary fine dining.
Blue Maize308 S. Hunter St. Aspen 970-925-6698Major Credit Cards acceptedFull bar /
Aspen may be a small town, but that hasn't kept Southwestern food outside the city limits. The Blue Maize is one of at least five restaurants in and around Aspen that offers an ode to south-of-the-border cuisine. In this case, the food is slightly upscale, with entrees like barbecued anchiote salmon with wilted arugula and fire-roasted tomatores, or chili-rubbed ribeye steak and sweet potato fries. For appetizers, the lamb empanadas with a mint mojo or the octopus salad with mixed greens and smoked tomato vinaigrette might be some of the more daring food to sample. Or, if you're leaning toward the conventional side, try the "New World Fajitas." Of course, "conventional" goes out the window when you order the buffalo, chorizo, and chicken fajita, however. The staff favorite dessert, the Adobe Brownie, is worth trying if it's possible that you still have room left for dessert.
Boogie's DinerCorner of Cooper and Hunter Aspen 970-925-6610Major credit cards acceptedFull bar /
Owned by one of Aspen's favorite local citizens, Leonard "Boogie" Weinglass, Boogie's Diner is a magnet for families, young people, and grown-ups alike. Maybe it's the huge (enough for two) milk shakes that feature Ben and Jerry's ice cream, or maybe it's because they offer heart-healthy food alongside the more decadent offerings, but this diner is hugely popular at all times of the day. If classic, hearty food is what you're after, then go for the patty melt. If you're not in that type of mood, then try the "Leave it to Caesar" salad or a good old-fashioned turkey sandwich. This wouldn't be a diner if they didn't offer meat loaf or macaroni and cheese or a hot open-faced turkey sandwich, and so these share the menu, too. The size of the desserts make it a dessert-only destination for many people as well: the brownie delight or the jumbo banana split are just two of the sweet reasons to come here.
Cache Cache205 S. Mill Street Aspen 970-925-3835Major credit cards acceptedFull bar Dinner only
Cache Cache bills itself as "a bit of ProvenÁe in Aspen," and that's as good a description as any. Their signature dish, a tian of lamb with ratatouille, candied garlic, spinach and potato crown, captures the flavors of Provence and more. It's beautiful-looking as well as rich and flavorful. The osso bucco crosses the border between Italy and France with its marsala sauce and French lentils, while the New York sirlion and peppercorn sauce is a classic. The menu is extensive, featuring rotisseried fowl, several meats and seafoods, vegetarian dishes, salads, and lovely appetizers. Ask for an outdoor table where heat lamps abound as the sun goes down.
Campo de Fiori205 S. Mill St. 970-920-7717Major credit cards acceptedFull Bar /
A livlier place would be hard to find, and with
good food to match, Campo De Fiori is a real find. Most of the tables are outside and so tightly fit together that you inevitably get to know your dining neighbors. It's all part of the festive ambience of this very Italian restaurant. Salads feature ingredients like arugula, tomatoes, balsamic vinegar and parmesan cheese. Pastas and risotto highlight the best components of Italian cooking including wild mushrooms, calamari and truffle oil (not together, of course). Entrees might feature balsamic roasted chicken or traditional veal, but no matter what, you're going to get good, basic Italian fare with a memorable flair from the very harried waitstaff. Attitude abounds but it's all in good humor. Evidently it works because reservations are a definite must.
CantinaCorner of Mill and Main St. 970-925-3663Major credit cards acceptedFull bar
It isn't hard to guess what type of food the Cantina offers. What makes this Mexican restaurant a little different, though, is that it's a local institution, having been owned by the same person for more than two decades. The fare is pretty standard with some Rocky Mountain specialties thrown in: wild game fajitas and the pork loin with a smoked jalapeÒo sauce are among these. Otherwise, molÈ chicken, enchiladas, chiles relleÒos, burritos, guacamole, salads, and quesadillas round out the menu. Wash all of this down with a margarita, which some say is the best in town.
Mogedor430 E. Hyman Avenue Aspen 970-920-4885Major credit cards acceptedFull bar
Descend the steps into this restaurant and enter a world unlike any other in Aspen. Known for its contemporary cuisine with a Mediterranean slant.
The Chart House219 E. Durant St. Aspen 970-925-3525Major Credit Cards acceptedFull bar
The ubiquitous Chart House didn't skip Aspen, and for many, it's a nice feels-like-home place to go. The fare is standard: New York steak, teriyaki top sirloin, chicken breast teriyaki, King crab legs, and shrimp cocktail. But unlike many of the Chart House restaurants, this one has retained its salad bar. That may be a throwback to the seventies, but for some, it's a welcome foray into the past. The 5-inch high mud pie is still the Chart House dessert highlight.
The Crystal Palace300 E. Hyman St. Aspen 970-925-1455Major credit cards acceptedFull bar
This Aspen institution has been feting and feeding audiences for years in an historic brick building in downtown Aspen. The entertainment is Broadway musical-meets-politics, or musical satire,where the servers double as entertainers, and the fare is not exactly contemporary, but it still packs 'em in nightly. Among the culinary offerings are escargot bourguignonne, onion soup gratinÈe, mushroom caps stuffed with crabmeat, prime rib au jus, roast
rack of lamb, and with a nod to the East, shrimp hoisin. The entire evening costs $49.50, though appetizers and dessert are extra.
Explore Booksellers and Bistro211 E. Main St. Aspen 970-925-5338Major credit cards acceptedFull bar service
One of the best book stores anywhere in the country, Explore also offers almost as varied a food selection as it does books. The small tables are congregated mostly in one space upstairs, but other tables are placed here and there in various nooks and crannies throughout the book-packed place. The all-vegetarian menu features some meat-like dishes, like portabello steak -- portabello mushrooms seared with red wine demi-glace -- and "veal" parmesan -- seitan (wheat gluten) breaded with spicy crumbs and sautÈed. But Explore also offers soups, salads, and wonderful homemade desserts. Don't come here in a hurry since it's a great place for a midday break or a late-night snack where you can spend hours combining two of life's most wonderful pleasures: reading and eating.
Flying Dog Brew Pub424 E. Cooper Avenue Aspen 970-925-7464Major credit cards acceptedFull bar
Long popular with locals, this often under-30 crowd indulges in pretty good pub fare, including calamari, chicken wings, and "onion wheels" for appetizers. Dinner offers something for everyone including prime rib on weekends, baby rack ribs, and even a Reuben sandwich. (huh?) Soups and salads are also popular, but the real draw is the brewery itself, Aspen's first in 100 years. (Aspenites evidently went without their brew for an entire century). The Flying Dog beer is made right there and includes everything from porters to stouts and seasonal beers as well.
Guido's430 S. Galena Aspen 970-925-7222Major credit cards acceptedFull bar
The Swiss Alps meet the Rocky Mountains at Guido's where the specialties of the house include Fondue NeuchateloÓse (melted GruyÈre, emmantaler, and appenzeller cheese), wienerschnitzel, Les Pates Genoises, pasta with shrimp or chicken, fresh pesto and sundried tomatoes, and L'EmincÈ de Veau 'Zurichoise,' small slices of veal served with a creamy
mushroom sauce and r¯esti (shredded potatoes sautÈed on both sides until crispy). Starters include raclette Valaisanne, melted raclette cheese served with red potatoes; Buenderfleisch, air-dried beef and prosciutto from Switzerland served with cornichons and cocktail onions, and Carpaccio Louisianne, thinly-sliced top sirloin with spices and herbs quickly charred and served with shaved Italian parmesan and Creole
mustard sauce. Desserts are mostly French and include chocolate mousse, creme brulÈe, chocolate soufflÈ, and homemade apple strudel.
The Hotel Jerome330 E. Main St. Aspen 925-920-1000Major credit cards acceptedFull barDinner onlyCentury Room:The Library: The J-Bar: Jacob's Corner: /
A visit to the Hotel Jerome not only gives the visitor a taste of Aspen history, it also offers a taste of some of the best food in town. The most formal restaurant is The Century Room which combines the best of old and new, with a refined Victorian setting and a contemporary menu. Among the dinner offerings are the horseradish crusted native rack of lamb with white bean cassoulet and lamb jus, sterling salmon with chive-whipped mashed potatoes and braised spinach with a roasted poblano sauce, and diver scallops with white truffle gnocchi and artichokes. But if a formal dinner is not on the agenda, you can still enjoy the historic setting by visiting The Library at the Hotel Jerome, which serves light fare from 11a.m. until 2:00 a.m. (Late-night eating is almost non-existent in Aspen, so this is a good alternative). Or, if you're thirsty, The Jerome Bar, or J-Bar as it's known locally, is a great place to imbibe in a drink and in the past. The J-Bar has been servicing Aspenites from the same place for over 100 years. Finally, go to Jacob's Corner for breakfast or lunch, take a seat outdoors, weather permitting, and enjoy eggs benedict or a cereal-toast combination of "grilled cornflake French toast." For lunch, the Asian shrimp salad with julienne vegetables, crisp wontons, and sesame-red ginger dressing, or a barbecue chicken salad might be the way to go.
The Howling Wolf316 E. Hopkins Aspen 970-920-7771Major credit cards acceptedFull bar /
When the Howling Wolf first opened its doors, it became an instant hit among the local crowd. The very funky decor, late hours, and decided lack of attitude was a huge magnet for the down-to-earth types who weren't necessarily in Aspen on holiday. But like many trendy places, this one lost its appeal, and last summer, underwent a major overhaul. The funkiness remains, but the menu is a little more mainstream. Dinner features an ecclectic list, from hummus to halibut, while lunch is standard burger and salad fare. One thing that didn't change too much is the prices, which are a bargain for this town. Another plus is that they are intent on using organic vegetables and meats whenever they can. In addition to the food, poetry, art, and live music are among the featured highlights of The Howling Wolf.
Jack's The Sardy House128 E. Main St. Aspen 970-925-2525 (or 1-800-321-3457) Major credit cards acceptedFull bar
The Victorian bed-and-breakfast setting of Jack's is a welcome introduction to one of the finest meals to be found in Aspen, whether it is breakfast or dinner. Breakfasts are well-known here, especially on sunny mornings when you can sit in the poolside garden and enjoy their famous blueberry pancakes. Dinner can also be eaten outside, weather permitting, and might include a smoked trout and spinach salad or roasted apricot quail to start. Grilled caribou tenderloin, pancetta-wrapped sea bass, or thyme-roasted chicken fill out the entree menu. Since excellent baked goods are standard fare for breakfast, it stands to reason that homemade desserts are emphasized at dinner. Don't miss them.
Jimmy's205 S. Mill St. Aspen 970-925-6020 Major credit cards acceptedFull bar /
If you feel like saddling up to some down-home (albeit not cheap) steak and potatoes, plan to make a stop at Jimmy's. The cowboy theme begins in the long bar where any number of tequilas can be found. The main dining area is basic steak restaurant decor -- lots of wood and white tablecloths. The food here extends beyond steaks, however. Main courses include Rocky Mountain trout, crab cakes, beef short tibs, rotisserie chicken, baby back ribs, and several vegetarian selections. Burgers, including an ahi tuna burger and meatloaf, are offered, while salads and several soups round out the menu. The cookie jar (for the table) makes for a fun ending to an already-filling meal, but unfortunately, they're not quite as good as Grandma's.
Kenichi533 E. Hopkins St. Aspen 970-920-2212 Major credit cards acceptedFull bar /
"Creating Edible Art" is Kenichi's slogan, and a quick glance at the food as it emerges from the kitchen and sushi bar pretty much confirms this. Prices are rather creative here as well (read: high), but the festive atmosphere, diversity and quality of food, and the local color makes it well worth it. It's unusual to see a Caucasian-staffed sushi bar, but somehow these guys know how to put together a good plate of raw fish, even if they haven't been imbued with the deep traditions of the sushi-san. Hot entrees range from excellent crab cakes which are encased in a nest of wonton strips, to bamboo-steamed sea kelp, Japanese cabbage, vegetables, and seafood, to the more common teriyaki. But most people come for the sushi and sake, a combination that leads to a a screeching decibel level but a heck of a good time as well.
La Cocina308 E. Hopkins Ave., Aspen 970-925-9714Major credit cards acceptedFull bar
One of the long-standing restaurants in town, this unassuming Mexican eatery offers good food in a cozy house-like setting. In addition to the margaritas, the fare is fairly standard including chicken enchiladas, soft tacos, green chile, guacamole and side orders of beans. Salad offerings include seafood (shrimp and crabmeat) and grilled chicken. Its casual setting is often the draw for not-so-casual people who are looking to let down their hair for an evening and have a good time. Of course, the locals like it, too, which says alot about its universal appeal.
L'Hostaria620 E. Hyman Ave., Aspen 970-925-9022 Major credit cards acceptedFull bar /
Speak Italian here and most of the staff will speak back in their native country's tongue. Owned and run by three Italian transplants, L'Hostaria is one of the newer restaurants on the Aspen scene and a popular one as well. Al fresco dining in the small patio makes for an intimate evening, but the food is the thing here. The classic vitello tonnato -- thinly sliced veal with tuna sauce and capers -- is an authentic representation, while the primi of ravioli di zucca, parmigiano e noci -- pumpkin ravioli, walnuts, and parmesan -- is a winner. All pasta at L'Hostaria is made daily in-house. The extensive menu also includes black truffle-flavored boneless quail with braised cabbage and tomatoes, veal Milanese with arugula and cherry tomatoes. A vegetarian entree includes Roman-style artichokes, eggplant and tomato pie, and other grilled vegetables. The classic tiramisu is offered under dolci, but there are also some interesting twists on classics like semifreddo which, here, is made of wild cherries and cassis, or the panna cotta which is served with a spiced red wine poached pear.
Little Annie's Eating House517 E. Hyman Ave. Aspen 970-925-1098 Major credit cards acceptedFull bar
A strictly local place (which doesn't mean visitors can't come), Little Annie's has probably been in Aspen as long as the silver mines. Or so it seems. Choose between barbecued spare ribs, Annie's spaghetti, or prime rib, and you're choosing one of the house specialties. For lighter fare, several salads fill out the menu, while sandwiches ranging from Reuben's to burgers round things out. A very casual place with casual food, Little Annie's has staying power. It's a great place for families but it's also a place where locals gather for an afternoon beer, some Mexican-style pizza, and a generally good time.
Montagna675 E. Durant Ave. Aspen 970-920-4600 Major credit cards acceptedFull bar
The thought of hotel dining rooms usually conjures up images of formality and a certain staid, wooden experience. Not so at the Little Nell. Here, the diner is provided with a perfect balance of relaxed dining and professional flair. It's a balance that is pervasive throughout the Little Nell, and touches the visitor, whether as a guest of the hotel or of the dining room. Part of the reason is that the staff is well-trained, and they know how to make a guest feel special. Another reason is the outdoor patio that sits adjacent to the hotel pool. Often swimmers are still poolside when evening diners begin their meal, creating a sort of casual bridge between recreation and fine dining. But the lovely ambience is not the only reason that dining here is such a special experience. Plain and simple, it's the food produced by chef Paul Wade. Although "The Nell," as locals call it, has undergone a couple of chef changes since last summer, it remains a top-notch dining experience. That experience can be enjoyed all day, starting with a lovely breakfast of lemon soufflÈ pancakes -- the best you'll find -- or various twists on traditional egg dishes, such as eggs benedict served with shaved Canadian bacon on a toasted English scone (rather than a muffin). The work crowd and special lunch parties comprise much of the lunchtime clientele, as do diners who'd like to experience The Little Nell but would rather not fork over the high dinnertime prices. But dinner is perhaps the most special, if for no other reason than the Nell's award-winning wine list orchastrated by sommelier Richard Betts..
Lucci's508 E. Cooper St. Aspen 970-925-8866 Dinner onlyVisa and Mastercard acceptedFull bar
As the name implies, Lucci's is Italian. But this is no ultra-contemporary new wave Italian restaurant. It's more the red checkered tablecloth, waxed chianti-bottle style instead. Old-fashioned standard Italian fare comprises the menu, including fried calamari, Caesar salad, and garlic bread for starters. The three-course special pasta dinners include a soup or salad, a choice of one of four pastas, and a main course like chicken Marsala. Several vegetarian pastas are offered as are a few pork, meat, and chicken dishes. Kids get their own menu, including fried chicken strips and pasta with marinara sauce. Desserts are as standard as the menu.
Main Street Bakery201 E. Main St. Aspen 970-925-6446 Major credit cards acceptedBeer and wine only /
Filled to overflowing most mornings, the Main Street Bakery is one of the most enjoyable dining experiences to be had in Aspen. Casual is the word here where plastic chairs adorn the large outdoor patio and tables crowded together inside is just part of the fun. While baked goods are certainly a big part of the Main Street operation, so too is other great breakfast fare like pancakes, oatmeal, fruit, and wonderful cafÈ lattes. For lunch, several salads, hot and cold sandwiches, and soups and stews are offered, while dinner choices include pastas, meats, vegetarian, dishes, and seafood. Best bets for dessert are the homemade pies, tarts, and cakes. For many people, both locals and tourists, the Main Street Bakery is a daily ritual, especially when the weather is nice. But because of this, be ready to wait for a table at peak hours. You'll no doubt be glad you did.
Matsuhisa303 E. Main St. Aspen 970-544-6628 Major credit cards acceptedFull bar Dinner only /
The latest in Nobu Matsuhisa's ever-growing restaurant empire, Matsuhisa's is the hot spot of Aspen. Less than a year old, the upstairs-downstairs restaurant serves up refined Japanese food with a distinctive Western touch. Yellowtail jalapeÒo is a very California version of a favorite type of tuna, while white bass with truffle is more likely to be found in Trentino than Tokyo. Kobe steak is strictly Japanese as is the tuna tempura roll with yuzu miso sauce, while limestone lettuce with rock shrimp and scallops could be appropriately served in just about any corner of the world. Almost no one, save for the pickiest eater, would be without choices here, and it's that diversity that makes people wish they'd scheduled more than just one visit to this special place.
Mezzaluna624 E. Cooper Ave. Aspen 970-925-5882 No reservationsCredit cards acceptedFull bar
The abundant outdoor seating serves as a welcome mat for anyone interested in enjoying the fresh mountain air. Cool, hip, and casual, Mezzaluna offers fine, although not necessarily memorable, food. Still, it's a popular place since it offers several salads and pizzas, along with sandwiches and most of all an attractive, festive atmosphere. Later in the evening, it's pretty well dominated by the younger Aspen set.
Rustique216 S. Monarch St. Aspen 970-920-2555 Major credit cards acceptedFull bar /
This fabulous bistro is owned and run by Charles Dale, chef/owner of Renaissance. Everything from fabulous charcuterie to wonderfuly selected cheeses, roast chicken, mussels and cheese souffles fit this bistro-like atmosphere.
The Mother Lode Restaurant 314 E. Hyman Ave. Aspen 970-925-7700 Major credit cards acceptedFull bar Dinner only /
Almost forty years in operation, the Mother Lode continues to bring people in for Italian fare. The menu is anything but old-fashioned, though, featuring starters like golden beet and crab risotto or roasted garlic spread on toasted Tuscan bread with fresh tomatoes and basil. The ubiquitous Caesar shows up here, too, as do several kinds of pasta, including goat cheese ravioli and penne with jumbo prawns, Roma tomatoes, basil, capers, and lemon butter. The specialties of the house include pan-roasted Chilean sea bass wrapped in prosciutto with a sage and lemon broth, free-range chicken with morel mushrooms and herbed potato "lasagna," and a grilled veal chop served with a butternut squash and Granny Smith apple relish along with creamed
shiitake mushrooms. Desserts are homemade.
New York Pizza upstairs, overlooking the Hyman Avenue Mall 925-920-3088 No credit cardsBeer and wine /
Humor dominates this menu where, for example, you can order a "Sweep the Kitchen." Elsewhere it would be called "the works," since this pizza, or "specialty pie" as they call it, includes no less than eight toppings. The veggie pie features just as many ingredients, but of a vegetable nature, while the "White Garden" uses fresh garlic and basil as its base, instead of sauce, and then gets crowned with tomatoes, red onions, more basil, feta, and a choice of spinach or broccoli. Along with pizza, New York Pizza offers several salads, submarine sandwiches, and calzones. Since this hideaway is open till 2:30a.m., it's about the only place to go for late, late night fare (or early morning, as the case may be). Besides, what hits the spot better than a pizza at two in the morning, and then again at 11a.m.?
Pacifica Seafood Brasserie 307 E. Mill St. Aspen 970-920-9775 Major credit cards Full bar
When Pacifica opened in Spring of 1997, it was a huge hit. The mostly-seafood menu that leaned toward casual but creative was a departure from other Aspen restaurants. The combination of outdoor seating and great-looking food hasn't hurt business, but it's not all aesthetic. The cornmeal-chile-spiced fried calamari is one of the best of its genre, as is the Pacifica seafood cocktail which features rock shrimp, calamari, oysters, or crab, or a combination of any of these, served in a very spicy smoked chile hot sauce and garnished with avocado, cilantro, and fresh lime. It's a palate cleanser and pleaser at the same time. Steamed baby clams are voluminous and tasty, while the crispy parmesan croutons that adorn the lemony Caesar salad are addictive. Several types of fresh fish are offered each night and can be grilled in a lime chile butter, panfried with a chardonnay shallot butter, or steamed with lemon and herbs. Specialties include spicy catfish, paella, chicken adobo, and peppered sirloin steak. The large counter and service till midnight makes Pacifica a great place for a glass of wine and light, late fare, though it can get pretty crowded with locals toward the midnight hour.
Paradise Bakery and Ice Cream 320 S. Galena Aspen 970-925-7585 Cash or check only
Okay, this is not a restaurant. In fact, there's no place inside even to sit down, but a trip to Aspen inevitably leads to a trip to Paradise, in more ways than one. As for this piece of paradise, one whiff of the aroma of sweets baking in the oven as you walk by is enough to make you lose track of where you were heading. Forget about it and stop here for the espresso chip or dense chocolate ice cream, or both. All ice cream comes with a still-hot mini chocolate chip cookie or chocolate chip oatmeal cookie. Or if you're not interested in ice cream, there's frozen yogurt, or you can try one of several homemade saucer-sized cookies or dense, fudgey brownies. You can enjoy any of these treats on one of the several benches just outside of the bakery. Many people choose to start their day at Paradise since the huge muffins have been baking all night and are fresh for morning consumption. The low-fat muffins are so good that their low-fat label is downright questionable. (They say they make them with margarine, but that alone, is not low-fat, so their formula remains a secret). Whatever the case, the low-fat orange-poppyseed muffin is fantastic, as is the full-fat banana nut muffin, overflowing with life-sized walnuts. Since Paradise is open until midnight, it's often the last stop for night crawlers before heading home. Even the chilly nights can't mute the appetite for good ice cream, or, if worse comes to worst, for a hot, fudgey brownie.
Pine Creek Cookhouse Ashcroft 970-925-7939 Major credit cards accepted Full bar /
Cross-country skis or a sleigh ride are required modes of transportation during the winter to get to this charming lodge, located about twenty minutes outside of Aspen. In the summer, intrepid bicyclists and not-so-intrepid drivers frequent this long-time mountain lodge destination. Reservations are a must, or you'll drive or bike the fifteen windy miles for nothing. At lunch, there are two seatings, at noon and at 1:30. The menu features a large salad bar, several hearty sandwiches (try the "cookhouse decker," which has smoked turkey, bacon-mayonnaise, Jarlsberg cheese, tomaotes, avocado, and sprouts on six-grain bread), composed salads, including a grilled portobello mushroom on a bed of spinach and arugula with shaved asiago, white Italian beans, roasted pinenuts and a warm raspberry vinaigrette, and a few hot entrees. Dinner offers a mixture of mountain and sea level food, from the oven-roasted Colorado rack of lamb with a Dijon herb crust to oven-roasted turbot with a roasted sesame cucumber sweet pepper salad and an Oriental black bean vinaigrette. Starters are elaborate, like the grilled quail and venison sausage with a lingonberry-blueberry sage reduction or the oven-roasted Dungeness crab cakes served with a Creole remoulade. Save room for desserts like "Krisi's brownies," drenched in chocolate sauce or one of the dessert specials. For a real Rocky Mountain experience, the Pine Creek is the place to go. At night, it is cozy, and during the day, the views of the nearby mountain peaks are breathtaking. In the winter, they offer cross-country ski and sleigh packages, which naturally culminate in a meal.
PiÒons 105 S. Mill St. Aspen 970-920-2021 Major credit cards Full bar Dinner only
Although PiÒons isn't new, it remains the hardest reservation to get in Aspen. No reservation, no chance during winter or summer. The serious Colorado-Western theme and the extensive wine list are just two of the draws, but ultimately the creative kitchen keeps people coming back. For example, the pheasant quesadilla with herbed goat cheese and peperonata is a casual but Colorado-based starter, while the baked Prince Edward Island mussels in puff pastry smack of a more European tradition. The entrees return to Colorado in the form of elk tenderloin, Colorado striped bass, grilled rack of lamb, and sautÈed pheasant breast, but other entrees include a grilled New York steak, blackened pork tenderloin, and the ubiquitous ahi tuna. Sometimes PiÒons slides under the weight of its popularity, occasionally seating parties fifteen-to-thirty minutes after their reservation, or by handing out a small dose of attitude, but it's usually worth turning the other cheek and remembering that the hardest reservation in town is hard to get for a reason.
Poppycock's609 E. Cooper St. Aspen 970-925-1245 Visa and Mastercard for purchases over $20.00Breakfast and lunch only
There's a reason that Poppycock's sells its pancake mix: to provide Poppycock pancake addicts with their fix at home, wherever home may be. One bite and you're hooked, simple as that. The pancakes here are the perfect balance between dense and light, decadent and guiltless. But other breakfast and lunch items are equally satisfying. The thick, steaming oatmeal is one of these items, as are the fresh fruit and eggs. The constant whir of the blender speaks to the popularity of the fruit smoothies, while the salads, though not entirely contemporary, hit the spot with their clean, fresh ingredients. Prepare to wait for a table here, but just bring a newspaper and enjoy the brief wait. They move folks through very quickly.
Rusty's Hickory House 730 W. Main St. Aspen 970-544-6559 Major credit cards Full bar /
Breakfast or ribs, take your pick at this Aspen mainstay. If ribs aren't your thing, then BBQ chicken or Louisiana catfish might fit the bill. Traditional breakfasts, though, are the main reason to come to this Main Street location -- they're famous and filling, perfect for a pre-hike repast.
Renaissance 304 E. Hopkins Ave. Aspen 970-925-2402 Major credit cards accepted Full bar Dinner only
One of the most elegant dining experiences in Aspen is found at Renaissance. It's about the only place where you feel like maybe you should dress up a little, even though you're in a casual mountain community. The cool celadon walls and starched white tablecloths create a calm but inviting atmosphere, and the refined though friendly service enhances that feeling. Chef Charles Dale was voted one of Food & Wine Magazine's best new chefs in 1995, and three years later, he's still going strong. The most difficult part about dining at Renaissance is deciding what to have. Although they always have a very nice tasting menu that includes wine offerings, as well as a vegetarian tasting menu, the a la carte menu is hard to part with. The menu changes according to the season, but you can almost always find the rich spinach and Dungeness crab tart with basil, tomato, and balsamic vinegar or the Maine lobster and yukon gold potato salad with beet chips and truffle juice. The sauteÈd foie gras with a honey-poached pear and maple-candied pecans is just one way that foie gras might be prepared. A soul-satisfying entree is the crispy Chilean seabass with artichoke, shiitakes, and again, foie gras. So, too, is the crisp duck confit with baby cabbages, fingerling potatoes, and pancetta. Don't forget to order one of their soufflÈs, one of which is miraculously always made fat-free. How can it be good? Just try it. Of course, there are other dessert selections as well. The wine list alone is reason to visit Renaissance since it features numerous hard-to-get California wines as well as French selections. The sommelier is extremely knowledgeable, helpful, and guileless, making it a little easier to suggest to him that you might not want to spend the high prices for a hard-to-find wine, but would just like a nice bottle of wine to go with your meal. No problem. In fact, no worries at Renaissance -- just an evening to remember.
The R Bistro 304 E. Hopkins Ave. Aspen 970-925-2402 Major credit cards Full bar /
Just upstairs from Renaissance is the R Bistro, a casual alternative to the dining below. Also owned by chef Charles Dale, the kitchen at the R Bistro serves up quite decent, though less fancy, fare. A quesadilla filled with lamb, black beans, and fontina cheese might begin the meal, and it may be followed by a salmon burger on a brioche bun with tarragon tartar sauce or the grilled double thick pork chop with spinach and onions. A set menu is also offered here and includes a soup or salad, an entree, and a dessert. Since this is a small space with a large bar, the big draw here is often "liquid food," but it's also a place where both locals and tourists gather to enjoy good food and drink in a more casual though sometimes loud, atmosphere. The R Bistro also serves as an alternative to Renaissance wanna-be patrons who didn't make their reservations in time.
Syzygy 520 E. Hyman Ave. Aspen 970-925-3700 Major credit cards accepted Full bar /
It's too involved to explain what Syzygy, the word, means, but all that really matters is remembering the name at all. A great chef and a great sommelier together have created two winning menus, one for food and the other for wine. Some of the highlights include seared Hudson Valley foie gras with carmelized apples, spiced walnuts and brioche, a posole with lamb meatballs, poblano chile, and avocado, and a salad of artichokes, roasted peppers, NiÁoise olives, limestone lettuce, parmesan, and a balsamic vinaigrette. Main courses are inventive and span the ethnic globe, including the Asian-accented "chicken two ways," a grilled breast and an oven-roasted leg in a crispy egg roll with stir-fried vegetables and red curry sauce, or the French-inspired pan-seared Chilean sea bass, baby carrots, asparagus, morel mushrooms, potato batons, foie gras with a Muscat sauce. Mostly American is the horseradish salmon roulade with gold Yukon potatoes, crispy bacon, spinach, parsley creme fraiche and pine nuts. Save room for equally creative desserts.
Ute City Bar and Grill Inside the Ute City Building, corner of Galena & Hyman Ave. Aspen 970-920-4699 Major credit cardsacceptedFull bar
The heavily-trafficked corner on which the Ute City Bar and Grill sits has made it into a watering hole for locals, but also a place to go for almost any type of food mood. Often in the afternoon, you'll see people side-by-side at the bar enjoying an after-work libation, or you'll see lunchtime shoppers taking a break for a salad NiÁoise, a warm spinach and salmon salad, or a "San Francisco" crab melt, which comes with a curry aioli and fresh mozzarella. Dinner becomes a little more fancy with starters like a woodland mushroom risotto served alongside a duck confit with black mission figs and espresso duck jus, a seared ahi tempura roll, or a salad simply called "The Ute," that's anything but simple with its arugula and organic greens, warm herbed chevre, pistachio baklava with apples, grilled shiitake mushrooms and sun-dried vinaigrette. Entrees travel from Mediterranean bouillabaisse to a mixed grill of red deer, ostrich, and durck breast served with rhubarb onion compote, apricot fritter, and a mint basil pinot noir sauce. (Gotta give it to 'em for most creative!). Desserts are homemade and good.
Takah Sushi On the Hyman Avenue MallAspen 970-925-8588 Major credit cards accepted Full bar /
It's a wonder that in a town the size of Aspen that no less than three sushi bars thrive. But in some ways, Takah Sushi has the most authentic feeling of the three. Downstairs, below street level, this Japanese restaurant is a little more sedate and serious, although there's no lack of fun as well as creativity, since many locals choose this as their authentic Japanese dining experience. A large sushi menu is offered, including the basics as well as a nightly chalkboard of specials. Prices are surprisingly decent for sushi and for Aspen, but of course, that could change depending on market conditions. For those who prefer their food cooked, the appetizers range from gyoza (a Japanese version of a pot sticker) to miso soup, while some entrees go beyond the borders of Japan in the form of pad thai and vegetarian pad thai. Of course, teriyaki and tempura are also offered. A fun, if not decadent, dessert is the tempura fried ice cream with a choice of chocolate sauce or a fruit sauce.
Woody Creek TavernAlong Woody Creek, about 5 miles south of Aspen 970-925-4585 Major credit cards accepted Full bar /
This place is as rustic as it sounds, and as a result, attracts mountain people and mountain bikers alike. It's a stop along Woody Creek and also along the Rio Grande bike trail that begins in the middle of Aspen, and many tourists meander along the partially-paved trail just until they reach the Woody Creek Tavern. That's where the buck (and bike) stops and the fun begins. Offering BBQ and Southwest-style food (read: Mexican), The Woody Creek Tavern is a must for anyone interested in some seriously local flavor and some surprisingly decent food. A bonus is the David Florio art gallery next door, which is equally rustic but showcases some of America's best and most well-known contemporary artists. Back at the Tavern, the bar (or tavern, as the case may be) is another big attraction, and since the bus stops right in front, it's okay for those who've enjoyed themselves a little too much to hop on board. Buses are equipped with bike racks. For those who'd rather skip the bike trip in, the bus is a good alternative in both directions. Some of the seating is outdoors for those who'd rather be enjoying the sunshine (or stars) than the slightly more raucous indoor ambience. Either way, the Woody Creek Tavern is a fun, only-in-Aspen experience that's definitely worth doing.
Laura Werlin
